About
When you tell people you went on vacation to Estonia and Latvia, their natural first reaction is alway, "Why?" I now have a bit of experience answering that question. And it's actually quite simple. I had given myself about 12 days to travel and wanted to go back to Europe - someplace I had never been. The only real caveat was that I had to fly Delta. I'm a points whore. So, when I found a silly-inexpensive flight to Helsinki, I decided to explore my options in that general region. Having never visited much of the northeast part of the continent and appreciating Soviet history, I ultimately decided to use my flight to Finland as a jumping off point to the Baltics. Unfortunately, Lithuania will have to come during a another visit. There just wasn't enough time to enjoy all three Baltic countries. In fact, I even decided to only explore two major cities - the respective capitals of Estonia and Latvia, Tallinn and Riga.
Arriving in Helsinki
I took an overnight flight from JFK to Copenhagen and then another quick hop on SAS to Helsinki. I'd never flown SAS before, but it was a part of Sky Team so I figured the pilots had least a few hours of flight training. It was fine. No frills. But it got me safely into Finland. Having already gone through Schengen Area immigration in Copenhagen, I was able to just walk off my flight and head into the city. To do this I followed the signs downstairs for the train, purchased an ABC tickets (3 zones), and then either the I or P train to Helsinki Central Station. It took 30 minutes. Easy.
Helsinki Central Station
From the central station platform, you kind of walk out into plaza and cross over to a building on the left. Downstairs in the back you'll find the VR luggage storage. It's automated and relatively inexpensive. I chose the XL locker because I wasn't sure if both of my bags would fit. Turns out it was big enough for all of the Rolling Stones touring gear.
Temppeliaukio Church
Next I set out on foot for my day in the city, starting out with the famous rock church. It took me about 15 minutes to get there. You can't miss it. It's the thing with all the tourists. It costs €8 to go inside, and I actually got there before it opened to the public at noon. Supposedly there is a free public service in Finnish at 10am, but I missed that. But right before noon the tourists were already growing outside. So I knew if I wanted any chance of snapping a photo of this architectural wonder without hoards of people, I would have to be strategic. I pre-purchased a ticket on my phone and then gate-liced the hell out of the entry so I could be first in. As the doors opened I fast-walked like a crazy person past the welcome area and took a few photos before the chaos. It worked. And it was worth it. Within literally seconds it was swarming with people. Satisfied, that I at least got a pretty image, I was able to actually walk around slowly and take it all in. Even sat for a bit and just looked up, admiring the spiral ceiling. Was it worth €8? Probably not. More like a fiver. Didn't spend all that long in there. But still kinda cool. And I knew it would likely be the most touristy part of my day.
Eira Neighborhood
I knew my time was limited in Helsinki - just the day - so I sorta pre-planed a full walking route. And from the rock church I then set off for the Eira neighborhood, due south about 25 minutes. It was a lovely stroll where I got to take in much of the city, appreciating it's architecture and trams and people, though everything was rather subdued being it was a Sunday. Lots of dogs, though. Finnish people like their pets. And I was happy for that. The Eira neighborhood is lined with expensive old apartments in beautiful buildings, the best of which can be found on one particular street.
Huvilakatu Street
This is that street. Stunning.
RAMS Roasters
From Huvilakatu Street, it's just short walk over to a little coffee shop that I read had a cinnamon bun that wasn't to be missed.The rumor was true. This thing was insane. Though it was starting to mist, I sat outside and enjoyed a cup of coffee and my photo-worthy pastry. I also ended up experiencing a quirk of Finnish culture that I had read about, but didn't quite understand. It's that Finns tend to be rather aloof and quiet. They value personal space and privacy. Whereas I'm a talker and love chatting it up with strangers. So I met a woman who was there with her husband and kids. Clearly she was from America. California to be specific. But her husband was Finnish. She and I talked and yapped (politely and within reasonable decibel levels) while her husband just sat there. He wasn't rude. Not at all. He smiled. But was just ... quiet. I have no idea how an American and a Finn pull off such a relationship, but it seemed to work. It was a cute little demonstration of cultural differences.
Market Square
After my coffee and snack, I walked over to Market Square by the waterfront. It was a collection of kiosks with food offerings and venders selling touristy nicknacks and crap I didn't need or have any interest in. So, I just hung around for a short bit before moving on. My next stop was (to be) a statue called the Wise Mouse. This is one of my favorite things to do when I travel - search for pointless landmarks. Statues and benches and whatnot. Just a silly adventure for the sake of seeing what else appears along the way. Now, I said the Wise Mouse was to be my next stop. But I never found it. Or maybe I did and just missed it because it's supposedly very small.
Kallio Neighborhood
Having failed to find the tiny statue, I soldiered on to another neighborhood just across the Kaisaniemi Bay. I think. It was just a small inlet river. The neighborhood is called Kallio. It's supposedly had a lot of the charm of Helsinki with less tourists. That seemed accurate.
Flat no 14
I'd done a lot of walking (some of it in a slight rain) and felt I finally deserved a beer. So, I stopped into this fun, trendy little cafe. It was lively. Filled with young-ish people. Flat no 14 describes itself as a restaurant, a bar, and your second living room. Again, that seemed accurate. I had a Bohemian-style pilsner. I people watched. I hit my wall. Travel had rather caught up to me, so I decided to skip some of the other nearby highlights I wanted to check out - like the Suvilahti skate park, Solmu Pub, Kotiharjun Sauna, and Alppipuisto Park. All of these stops were on my "maybe" list if I had time. I did. I just didn't have the energy, and I really wanted to hit the library. Seriously.
Oodi Helsinki Central Library
I crossed back across the bay, closing the circle of my mini walking route around the city, and made my last stop at what turned out to be my highlight of Helsinki. The Oodi Helsinki Central Library isn't just an architectural marvel, it's an institution that surely embodies everything that makes Finns the happiest people on Earth. It was stunning to look at and it literally warmed my soul. Seriously, I almost got a little emotional. Almost. At its core, yes, Oodi is a library. But it's so much more. It's largely just a gathering space. For everyone. You can sit around and read with friends - loads of kids and adults were doing just that. Or you could use their free services and facilities to your heart's content. Sewing machines, 3D printers, podcast studios, music recording rooms, chess tables. There were people everywhere just enjoying the space and each other. I even sat down for a bit and read my book. It was heavenly. The people of Helsinki are lucky to have such a place, and I only wish my city had anything even remotely close to this.
Viking XPRS
From the library it was just a short hop over to the train station where I grabbed my bags and then hopped on a tram to the ferry terminal. I could've walked. But I was over it. I knew I had a lot of time still, but figured I could maybe get on the boat early and kick back or, at worst, just chill in the terminal for a while. It was the latter. And it kinda sucked, actually. The terminal is no frills. And the boarding process is a hot mess. Lots of people. A mad dash to get the good seats. But I had a ticket and I was on my way. Prior to this trip I had actually agonized over which ferry to take to Tallinn, Estonia. Really, it's between three different companies Eckerö Line, Viking, and Tallink. And they're generally regarded in quality in this order, the prices reflecting their reputation. But not by much. For me it was between Viking and Tallink, and, ultimately, I chose the Viking XPRS for no other reason than departure time. I had heard it's a bit of a party on board these ships, and I was certainly curious. It's only a two hour journey, but Tallink does offer an "overnight" ship where you can sleep onboard in cabin. I considered this because I thought it might be a good time - weird for the sake of weird. Karaoke with drunk Finns. But, in the end, it seemed silly to waste a night on a stupid ferry. And, as it turned out, I got drunken karaoke on the Viking boat. And it was ... weird. Apparently, Finns love to sing old, sad songs. It's a thing. And it sounded like a dog growling. I watched for a little, but ended up just cozying into a window nook and catching some sleep. All while people hit the gambling machines near me and just plowed through money. It was astonishing, really. Two hours later we arrived in Tallinn in the darkness. It was cool and quiet in the night, and I was happy to be in Estonia.
:: TALLINN ::
Arriving in Tallinn
Departing the ferry was far easier than getting on, and I was quite ready to be off the boat. The ride was fine. I was just feeling like a decent meal and a proper sleep in a hotel bed. Fortunately, it was only a 12 minute walk to my hotel.
Metropol Spa Hotel
I'm not really an Airbnb guy these days. I like hotels. And I like saunas. This was both. A hotel and a sauna. A full spa actually. And it was perfect. I wouldn't get to full experience the hotel on night one, but, at first glance, I loved the location, the general vibe, and my room was really nice. I knew I made the right call on this one. And I would have no complaints. Every morning I started my day in Tallinn by going downstairs to the spa. It's free for guests. I would hit the hot tub, then the steam room, then the pool, then the sauna, then the pool, and back to the hot tub. It was heaven. Clean, modern, and simply wonderful. The hotel's location was in this cool little - I don't know how to put it - district with shops and restaurants and cafes. And, most importantly, it wasn't in Old Town. But near enough to that central tourist spot that you could walk there in ten minutes. And after checking in, that's exactly what I did in search of food and a beer.
Hell Hunt
In my notes, I had this bar in old town as being open late on a Sunday. Thus, I dropped of my bags in my room and made a mad dash to old town in hopes that I was right. And I was. Old town was quiet and lovely at this time. And the glow inside of Hell Hunt was welcoming. The Aston Villa v Crystal Palace football game was on TV. A small crowd was nestled inside. And I had just enough energy to scarf down some surprisingly good fries and polish off a large beer. Then it was back to the hotel where I promptly passed out for a proper night of sleep.
-----
Tallinn Old Town Records
I finally woke up at 11am. Worth it. And the first order of business on my first full day in Tallinn was hitting the spa. My body felt rejuvenated. Soon, I was back outside heading to Old Town to see it in daylight. And my first stop was at this little record shop. Seeing live music is always on my agenda, and I figured if anyone knew of cool local bands playing while I was in town it would be the guy behind the counter. And boy did he deliver with a tip about a noise rock duo called Hello Killu. He said he was running sound for them that Thursday for some show at the art gallery. I made a note. More on that later.
Cafe Maiasmokk
This is described as Estonia's oldest continuously operating coffee house. It apparently dates back to 1864. It was fine. Nothing special. I feel like it cashes in on being old, moderately charming, and right in the heart of Old Town. I had much better coffee in much cooler shops while in Tallinn. But if you're there and you need a cup, go for it.
Goofy Wiener Dog Park Bench
After coffee it was time to do some wandering. And first stop was a random bench. It was actually in my notes as one of those silly, unusual things that I would seek just to see if I could find it. And it was right there on my way to get some caffeine. It was cute. Whatever.
Kohtuotsa Viewing Platform
Tallinn's Old Town is high up on a hill and offers some stunning lookouts. So my next stop was at one of two notable viewing platforms. Oddly enough, on my last day I would discover a third viewing platform that never found its way into my notes, and it was easily my favorite. But for now, I was enjoying, perhaps, the city's most famous one. The one that ends up in all the photos because the word Tallinn is adorned on a nearby wall. It's definitely nice. And worth it.
Patkuli Viewing Platform
Different platform. Different view.
Balti Jaama Turg
It was time for lunch. Weeks back I had connected with a guy on the Facebook group for Tottenham fans in Estonia. And he tipped me off to a cool area to grab food and a beer. The Baltic Station Market is located just outside of Old Town, built into old warehouses. So you've got all sorts of cool shops and restaurants and bars. And without the heavier tourist throngs in Old Town. It's sort of worth noting here that I didn't actually spend a lot of time in Tallinn's Old Town. It's gorgeous, for sure. Well preserved and out of a fairy tale. But it was a little too touristy and pricy for my liking. Anyway, I went to this market to find the Totttenham guy's recommended restaurant.
Humalakoda
It was a cool little brewpub with decent beer on tap and pretty good food. I had a great hamburger and an IPA. Solid recommendation.
R-Kiosk
After lunch my plan was to head back to the hotel and prep for the rest of the night. But first I stopped at what is basically Estonia's version of a 7-Eleven. There, I bought a five-day transit card for €14. And after changing clothes, I used the card to ride the tram back to the general area where I had lunch, but this time at a little restaurant and bar
Peatus
The place was pretty neat, built out of an old, historic rail car. Definitely had a cool look. But sorta quiet. Maybe it was just the time of day on a Monday, but no real vibe. Still, I sat outside and had a beer. And that was nice.
Heldeke!
I had purchased tickets to a comedy show. By luck, I was in town during the Tallinn Fringe Festival, and decided to roll the dice on a one-woman act by Rebecka Vilhonen called "Do I Want to F**ck My Dad?" The venue was a small - a vaudeville-style theater - tucked away in a largely residential neighborhood. The houses sort of reminded me of being in New Orleans. But cleaner. And, because I got there faster than I expected, I strolled deeper into the streets and discovered lots of new, modern mixed-use structures under construction. They were very similar to Atlanta. It was an interesting area. But back to the show. Rebecka is Finnish, lives in Budapest, and was positively delightful. She performs in a bathing suit and 80's vintage windbreaker - because why not - and focuses her act on the type of men she's dated. Guys that are similar to her dad. Hence, the title. Anyway, fun show. Cool place. Nice people. Cold beer. And, finally, some people for me to chat with. I'm a talker and hadn't really gotten into a social groove. So this was nice. I'd be back.
 |
| I took this photo of Rebecka before the show because I loved how the club's owner behind the bar looks like he's not wearing pants. :) |
Capitol Restaurant
I can't really say much good or bad about this place. I was hungry, it was open late and on the ground floor of my hotel, and they had fries. Chatted with the barman for a bit. He wanted to practice his English. Seemed nice enough.
-----
Von Krahl Cafe
After my requisite spa morning, I spent FAR too much time unsuccessfully looking for a seamstress to mend a shirt I discovered ripped. It was one I wanted to wear on this trip and didn't notice the tear when I packed. I finally gave up and took the tram over to the Telliskivi Creative City - an artsy district featuring studios and galleries and museums and cafes and bars. It's wonderful! And here I found a delightful cafe where could finally have my morning coffee. It's attached to the Von Krahl Theater, and it was perfectly cozy.
Mia & Leela
After my coffee I wandered around the Creative City for a bit and stumbled into this little boutique where, in talking to the owner, discovered they could fix my shirt. Perfect! I had it in my bag and so I left it with them while I hit up a museum. Meant to be! Nice people. Go buy stuff from them.
Fotografiska
While my shirt got fixed I hit up the nearby photo museum where I was lucky enough to catch their beautiful and inspiring Elliott Erwitt Exhibit. He's famous for, among other works, his often humorous human portraits and photos of dogs. This museum was magical and so well curated. I also caught the equally-inspiring exhibit sharing the works of the legendary street photographer, Bruce Gilden.
F-hoone
The lady at the clothing boutique recommended this restaurant as a nearby place for lunch. Good choice! It had a really cool vibe. I stuck around for two beers and a delicious plate of meat dumplings. For the first time on this trip I remember feeling like I was getting back into my old travel groove. This was nice.
Ratas & Kohv
This is actually a bike shop. But they have a stage and, as a part of the Tallinn Fringe Festival, was hosting a German singer-songwriter named Leonard Carow. When I was planning my trip I saw this listing and decided to check him out on Spotify. I really dug his music. Simple, pretty songs with a unique voice. And he was great. His set also included a short break for a poetry reading by Anjali Menon. Before the show I also met an American lady named Laurie who now lived in Tallinn and was a regular contributor to a local entertainment review magazine called Sour Cream & Dill. She was there reviewing the show. Spoke to Leonard for a bit after the show. Really nice dude. Great music. Check him out.
Shaurma Kebab
On the way back to my hotel I decided to stop at this little food trailer for a shawarma. No joke, it's probably my favorite food. Especially when traveling. If there's one thing I wish America had more of it's little shawarma stands. The guy behind the window was from Azerbaijan and I asked him, "What is the best?" He replied, "Happiness. That is what is best. And then ... shawarma."
-----
Kalamaja Neighborhood
Once a medieval fishing village near Old Town, today this is sort of a hip industrial center with cool buildings as well as remnants of the well-preserved wooden houses. The style is called "Tallinn House" and it reminds me a lot of New Orleans. Technically the district spans all the way to the Telliskivi Creative City and places I had already been, but on this day I had taken a scooter to the bustling harbor area. My plan was to go to the Brewklyn Craft Beer Cafe but it was closed. I found another open brewery, but first I needed coffee.
Robert's Coffee
It was nothing special. Rather expensive, really. But, I needed caffeine, and it was, in fact, a coffee shop.
Põhjala Brewery & Tap Room
This was the big winner of the day. Amazing beer and great BBQ. This place was exactly what I needed. The vibe is perfect. They truly used the existing space and worked with the architecture to create a really cool environment. The weather was also great, so I sat outside and made friends with strangers. I was officially on board for a an afternoon of day drinking. I had a couple options after. One was a Drink and Draw event where lots of strangers get together for booze and drawing nude models. It's supposed to be fun. But, instead, I opted to go back to Heldeke for their Sauna Social + Bar.
Heldeke!
This event takes place every Wednesday and Sunday. It's pretty simple. You get drinks from the bar and then sit int eh sauna with strangers. Clothing optional. On this night, It was me, a couple from England, a dude from Turkey, and an old man from Tallinn. Guess which one was naked? Ding! Ding! Ding! The old dude! But whatever, it was fun. We laughed and chatted and went back and forth from the sauna to the cold pool, and an experimental electronic band played in the stage area right outside the door. The music was billed as the Cellar Sessions, and featured a guitarist named Lebo Sibul with beats by a looper who went by raptorjesus42. You could wander over in a towel if you felt like it. Very chill. I ended up chatting with the staff and a couple other people after my sauna session and they invited me to a birthday party of a friend back near the Creative City.
Vaat Brewery and Tap Room
This was where the party was. Cool place, but I think it was maybe moving location or something and these were the final days. But what a fun crew. I ended up playing a couple games of chess with one dude, and then just chatting with others. And I even made a pizza run from F-hoone to thank them for bringing me along. A couple people here were comics in town for the Fringe Festival. I never really figured out how everyone knew everyone, but I felt very much at home and joined a few of them for som bar hopping.
Limoncello Baar
Ended up here in the Old Town. Shots were had. New people joined the group. Organized chaos.
Koht
Then we ended up here. More beers. More organized chaos.
Tallinn Pizza & Kebab
And we ended the night here. I had a kebab. Then I went to the hotel and right to bed. Fantastic day.
-----
OA Coffee
My post-sauna coffee choice today was a little place on the edge of Old Town. It's tucked away along a little alley, and the sun was hitting me just right as I sat outside. I really liked this little chop. Not too touristy - despite being in Old Town. Perfect little nook to people watch an caffeinate.
Hotel Viru & KGB Museum
Next it was over to a pre-booked museum visit. Finally! Time to get some soviet history on! The KGB Museum is located at the Hotel Viru, and the museum is dedicated to what went on at this historic and still-active hotel. The tour is like twenty bucks or something, and it does sell out. You meet with your time-group in the hotel lobby and then take the elevator up to the top floors where the museum is. Basically, the KGB was set up in this hotel to spy on guests, and everything was operated from the highest point of the hotel. Rooms were bugged. All that. Tour was decent.
Kadriorg Park
After KGB I took the tram to an area a bit east of the city center. Not far, but a little bit away. That's where Kadriorg Park exists in a quaint neighborhood that actually felt a lot like Inman Park here in Atlanta. I sort of walked around - literally around - the park for a bit looking for a place to eat. There was one place that seemed interesting, but it was closed. Never did find a restaurant I wanted to stop in, so I just kept walking outside the park along the waterfront, and treated myself to an ice cream. Finally, I walked through the park itself on my way to the KUMU Museum to hopefully catch Hello Killu concert. If it was actually a thing that was happening. I still didn't know. But the park was lovely and at one point I stumbled upon ...
Presidential Palace
... the dang Presidential Palace. I had no idea that it was just sitting there in this park. It was like all of a sudden I just saw this really big house that seemed a bit more important than other nearby buildings. Which is to say, that it's not super palatial. But still big and grand. The crazy thing - especially as an American - was how you could just walk right up the building. This is where the Estonia president lives and works and there seemed to be but two fancy looking guards at the entrance. No walls. Nothing. At first, right when I got there, I asked some lady who was playing with her kids in what I guess would be the building's front yard. I asked, is this really the president's house? She was so casual. Oh yeah. No big deal. Nobody bothers him. And if that didn't make me think that these Estonias were some well-adjusted MF-ers, the president's house wowed me even more. Right there in the front. Because of course the house had it's own bee apiary with a little sign saying these were the president's official bees and that bees are important to life. Ugh. These people are wonderful. And the place also had one of those free take-a-book-or-leave-a-book library boxes by the pedestrian walkway through the park. Well done, Estonia.
KUMU (Estonian Art Museum)
After this I went right over to the museum in hopes of catching Hello Killu, a really cool noise rock duo from Tallinn. The KUMU Estonian Art Museum was where they were supposedly playing, at least according to the dude at the record store. The museum itself was quite nice. I walked in. It was late afternoon. I found a worker and asked about the show. She then explained, well, it's note technically a show. There's a ticketed event for the opening of an exhibit, and the band would be playing a little to kick it off. And in about ten minutes. She was very nice and said it would be fine if I went up to see the music. Amazing. The exhibit was lesbian photography by the late artist, Anna-Stina Treumund. It was called How to Recognize a Lesbian. I made it up to the fifth floor just in time to catch the entire 20-minute set by Hello Killu. It was incredible. Very different than what I normally dig. And I certainly have a new appreciation for noise rock. After the show, I walked around the exhibit for a bit and then left. It was perfect. Glad I went early to ask about the show - thinking it would be at night - only to walk in just as it was about to start. Boom!
Kompressor
I trammed back to the hotel, cleaned up, and then went to a restaurant called Kompressor that someone from the party crew tipped me off to as having good food. I had the famous pancakes. Basically crepes. But mine had ground beef and cheese. It was pretty decent and filling. I also had a side order of fried cheese balls. This is Estonia's answer to getting tater tots at the bar in America. And for a drink I decided to try the country's signature liquor, Vana Tallinn. It's sort of a vanilla citrus thing. Almost like Tuaca. But not really my taste. Everything else was great, though!
-----
Levier
The previous day, right before going to Kompressor, I got a call about a freelance writing gig. This was exactly what I wanted. Some work - just the right amount - while traveling abroad. Overnight, I got all the additional information I needed so that when I was up and going - you know, after my time in the sauna - I could dive into a coffee shop and do some work. That coffee shop was Levier, right near the hotel in the heart of Rotermann Quarter. It was perfect. It actually seemed like a popular place for people working out of the office.
Flare Tattoo
Work done and properly caffeinated, I hopped on the tram for my tattoo appointment. I did a lot of research before the trip on what I wanted and by which artist, and I ultimately decided on Arina Kirillova. to do a barn swallow (bird) with small bit of Estonian blue. All in all a great experience. Nice little shop. Friendly people. Everyone takes their shoes off and wears slippers which I liked. Only problem was I forgot to get cash Euros, so I had to find an ATM and do that whole thing. Love my tattoo. She did an amazing job - maybe even the first tattoo where as soon as I was done I didn't have even a single second of doubt.
One Sixty Smokehouse
Barn Swallow on my arm, I was back on the tram and head out for lunch, eventually choosing a Texas-style BBQ restaurant in the Creative City. I had a couple beers with my pulled pork, beans, and slaw, and used that time to do a little more of that freelance work. I turned in what I had finished, and then went for a walk-about.
Toompark
Ended up in a really pretty park along the outer edge of Old Tow, nestling the Snelli tiik - a small pond. I decided this was a good place for a siesta, and laid down in the grass under a tree. It was magical. Didn't sleep much, but it was nice to close my eyes, nevertheless.
Piiskopi Viewing Platform (Bishop's Garden)
From down below I could see way up on the edge of Old Town another viewing platform. Or so it seemed. It wasn't in any of my notes. But it was clearly there. So I trekked up the stairs of the western wall and, wouldn't you know, I found the best damn sunset point in the whole city. The hidden square nestled up against it is called Bishop's Garden. From the wall, I perched myself up, sat there until the sun set, and then walked away fully satisfied that I saw a proper sunset. Trust me. This is the spot.
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
My next plan was to find a sports bar to finish up some freelance notes while watching the Estonia/Italy World Cup qualifier match. But, I decided to take the scenic route. Meaning I was going to find a few landmarks I had on my list, especially a couple silly ones. Just because. It's a great way to get lost in a city. And the first landmark was this Eastern Orthodox cathedral, built in the last decade of the 1800s.
Lucky Chimney Sweeper
Next it was on to this statue. It's said that rubbing the buttons on his coat is good luck. I gave it a few just to be safe.
Chopin Bench
Then it was over to the Chopin Bench, a gift from Poland. Supposedly, it's interactive and will play the opening section of the larghetto from Concerto No. 1 in E-minor, and the larghetto from Concerto No. 2 in F-minor. But I heard nothing. I sat just to be safe.
Black Angus Sculpture
Finally, I saw the famous bull sitting on a park bench. It's outside a steak house. I guess that makes sense.
Unibet Sports Bar
My night - and my time - in Tallinn would end with a bit of meh. I was hoping to find something very local and spirited, with Estonians cheering on their national team. But I ended up in a very Americanized sports bar with no soul. I felt nothing. But I had a beer, watched the first half, and did a little work. It might as well have been a Buffalo Wild Wings. I went back to the hotel, packed up, and readied for my early morning departure for Latvia.
:: RIGA ::
Arriving in Riga
Similar to which ferry to take from Helsinki to Tallinn, I agonized over which bus to use for getting to Riga. Ultimately, I opted for the Flixbus over the slightly more expensive LUX Express. It was fine. Nothing special. No wifi, but clean enough. Lux was probably better, but whatever. It's a four hour ride. It got be to Riga around 2:10 in the afternoon, and I took a tram to my Airbnb. I could already tell this city had a different vibe. Bigger. More bustling.
Airbnb
When it comes to lodging, I'm almost always Team Hotel over Team Airbnb. It's too hit and miss. Plus, I just like hotels. But this was definitely NOT a miss. This place was terrific, and exactly as advertised. Even better, actually. The neighborhood and location was perfect. Right in the center, near but not in the heart of Riga's touristy Old Town.
Miit Cafe
After stopping at a convenience store to get a three-day metro card, I hit up a little coffee shop near my Airbnb. The barista was very sweet and indulged me asking her how to say thank you in Latvian but teaching me a few other useful words. I sort of had an immediate takeaway that would prove itself true over the next couple days: That Latvians are more casual than Estonians. It's in the way they dress and the way they socialize. Neither is better or worse. Just different. It's like the further south you go from, say Finland, the more people warm up. Literally. Fins and Estonians seemed very similar. Anyway, I took my coffee to go and went out in search of food and music.
Zefirs
Walked to this little gastropub because I had read it had good beer and food. And it did. The only slight problem was that they were on a very limited menu due to the Euro Basketball championship tournament happening in Riga. Lots of foreign fans. But they were still able to make me an off-menu, big sloppy sandwich to go with my delicious IPA.
Sporta 2 Stage
Sort of across the parking lot from Zefirs was a stage area set up for an annual festival that was happening on this night called Balta Nakts - the White Nights Festival. All over town there were stages with bands and art and all sort of fun stuff. Everything free. I had a beer and watched a weird Emo band called Sunu Baniba. Gave them three songs. That was enough. Then I walked to Old Town where I knew of a few other festival highlights I wanted to check out.
The Freedom Monument
The walk to Old Town revealed lots of basketball fans - tonight was an epic showdown between Latvia and Lithuania. So, good people watching on the way to the tourist center where I finally saw, perhaps, Riga's most famous landmark, The Freedom Monument, celebrating Latvia's independence from Soviet occupation. I would pass this several more times throughout the trip, and would get to see it with honor guards during the day.
St. James Cathedral
Then it was over to a church for what I hoped would be a psychedelic experience. It wasn't. Coulda been, though. Alas, it was a laser show called In The Light: The Inner Boarder. But it was pretty underwhelming. Just lights and fog in a church.
Kaķis Maisā
I felt I deserved another beer. So I had one at a little sidewalk cafe in Old Town. Good beer. Good people watching. Cute cat logo. Cat's are important in Riga.
Ave Sol
Next, I hit up a little concert hall for a showcase called Skanu Mežas. It was a pretty cool room, and for the festival they were presenting experimental music. I caught two sets. One by EIII and another by Arttu Partinen. I like and appreciate experimental, but this wasn't really my thing.
Sporta 2 Stage (Again)
So I went back to the first stage I was at earlier in the day. The walk there was interesting. The basketball game had ended and I was sort of going against the stream of people, clearly heading into Old Town. I was rather pleased to be leaving the tourist center. The stage, now, had a bigger crowd. I caught a really awesome set by a band called Mona De Bo. They were very much like Radiohead meets Pearl Jam. Some locals I spoke with said that this band was actually once very popular and were sort of making a comeback, and that this performance was pretty special. Then I saw another band called L.L.L.. They were also an older band, and their thing was sort of electro-whatever. Not for me, so I ditched out for a beer over at Zefirs and came back for Voiceks Voiska - these middle-aged dudes sort of doing a ska thing. It was fun and lively, and the crowd loved it. I stayed for about six songs and then had to tap out for the night. The festival would go until 2am, but Jarrett was ready for bed.
-----
Innocent Cafe
Decent little coffee shop. I started my morning here in what be a long, fully packed day.
The Corner House
My first stop was for one of the marquis museums in Riga, The Corner House. I had pre-purchased my ticket for set time. It sells out. For good reason. This was absolutely worth it. Essentially, this otherwise ordinary building on a busy street corner actually once served as the headquarters for the KGB in Latvia. But it was much more than even that. Inside, the Soviets used various rooms for interrogation and cramped cells for the incarceration of Latvian citizens considered to be enemies of the state, and brought criminal cases upon those thought guilty of “anti-Soviet offenses." It's a dark and scary place with an execution shooting range, and it's stunning that it was just sitting there in relative plain sight.
LIDO
Lunch time! I stopped at a fairly well-known cafeteria famous for their Latvian cuisine. Which is, perhaps, gilding the lily. It's a chain cafeteria, but the food is traditional. And cheap. And, as you'd expect, mediocre. But it's sort of a weird must-do in Riga.
Riga Central Market
Next I walked over to the Riga Central Market which is an odd combo of tourist crap mixed within legit local goods and groceries. The footprint of the market is huge - much of it is outdoors. But the other parts are found inside a series of gigantic buildings that used to be zeppelin hangars. I found 30 minutes of wandering around to be more than enough. The hangars are actually quite impressive.
Riga Ghetto and Holocaust in Latvia Museum
Museum number two for the day was this nearby indoor/outdoor museum dedicated to Riga's holocaust history. It's a suggested donation of five Euros, and it's pretty much the appropriate price. It's good, but not great. There's almost TOO much information. Like no focused curation. If they had cut the information is half - or maybe more - it would've been a lot easier to digest what was important. Because what was good was really good. It was just ... a lot. And it's all self-guided. The photos and artifacts are terrific, but just way too heavy on words.
Great Cemetery
I then took the tram over to The Great Cemetery - an old burial ground for Riga's elite that has been turned into more of a public park. Lots of people just casually strolling among the ancient graves, some going as far back as 1773. It's not as well manicured as, say, Kadriorg Park in Tallinn, but it's also just different. I walked around for a bit and even attempted a little siesta, but the bugs were ... bugging me. So I scrapped that idea and walked to grab a beer.
Labietis Brewpub
I had read about this place a few times and was excited to finally check it out. It's situated in this really cool little enclave of old buildings, and the vibe was great. So was the beer. I met an American dude and we chatted it up for a bit and then ended up outside, sort of melding with another group of really funny dudes from Sweden. They were visiting a friend who was a local, and more of that person's friends showed up and we ended up having too many rounds. But a lot of laughs. A fun night!
LuLū
Before crashing out for the night, I grabbed a slice of pizza from a 24-hour joint near my Airbnb. It's a local chain, and I think it was good. I dunno. Beer.
-----
Mikla Bakery
Started my morning at this coffee shop, but the highlight here was the absolutely insane almond croissant. Holy cow. Go for the coffee. Stay for the pastries.
National Library of Latvia
First stop of the day required a nice walk across the river to the National Library of Latvia. Note that you'll have to check your bag - it's only a Euro - but then it's free to just walk around and check it out. And you should. It's impressive, and I actually enjoyed the cell phone app that gives you a nice guided tour. The architecture is really cool, and you also get some terrific view os Old Town. In all, I hung around for a little less than an hour, and that was fine.
Andalūzijas Suns
I took the tram back into town and had some time to kill before my walking tour, so I settled in for drink and a bite at this really cool restaurant. It was all reasonably priced, and they specialize in gin drinks. I let my server do dealer's choice and ended up with a delicious rosemary cocktail to go with my bean soup with smoked meat. It was a perfect meal on a beautiful day. This place was popular, and I was glad to get a table outside. Also, another place in town with a cat logo. I'm serious. They love cats here.
Latvian National Opera (Start of Walking Tour)
I love a good walking tour. It's a great way to see the city and maybe meet some nice people at the same time. And, here, I opted for the architectural tour through Guru Walk. There were about 15 of us, and it was a great introduction to the city's famous blocks of art nouveau.
Foodbox
Time for proper lunch. Late day snack. Whatever. Deliciousness. Because I love a kabab, and this place wraps them in their own house-made pits. I took it to go so I can sit in the grass and eat it at ...
Vērmane Garden
... Riga's first public park. I learned of this place during our walking tour. It was lively. The weather was brilliant. And I even managed a small siesta.
Cat House
I was close to a few Old Town locations I wanted to see, so after my siesta I wandered over to Riga's famous Cat House. I'm not exactly sure what the building is, but it was built in the style of a medieval castle, and contains elements of Art Nuveau. Of course, what makes it special is the two spires high on the roof, each capped with a sculpture of a black cat. Their backs are arched and their tails are raised, and once thought to be positioned so their buttholes would face the nearby house of the Great Guild, as the owner held a grudge against its members. Who knows. But, yay! More cats!
Black Magic Bar
Next I walked over to the famous Black Magic Bar, which is sort of the official place in town to drink Riga Black Balsam. Look, it's beyond touristy, but the room is objectively cool and the five Euro shot of Latvia's national drink was actually pretty tasty. It's a traditional herbal liqueur, first created in 1752 by a pharmacist named Abraham Kunze. It was invented as a medicinal elixir, but now it's just an excuse for selling merch. Like I said, this place is super touristy. The bartender ladies are dressed in old-timey costumes and seemingly gave zero cares. Downstairs in the (again, objectively cool) cellar they have a gift shop. It's all made for tourists. So, maybe it's worth a stop. Maybe not. You can also simply order it in any bar or buy a mini of the balsam in a shop if you just want to taste it.
Folkklubs ALA Pargrab
I went back to my Airbnb to cool off and clean up, and then head back into Old Town to check out this wildly famous restaurant. It's more than that. It's a bar. It has live folk music. And it's just big and busy. It seems to get a good mix of locals and, for certain, lots of tourists. And, at least on this night, it was super crowded. But I was able to find a seat at the bar and tried their famous honey beer and the strongest rye garlic bread on the face of the planet. Worth going to. Definitely didn't need to stay long. A honey beer nad some bread is the way to go.
Clayton McNamaras Drinking Emporium
After dinner, I decided to do a little pub crawl with the first stop being a quirky Star Wars themed bar. I didn't even stay for a drink. It was sort of cheesy and touristy and had no real vibe to it other than the decor.
Aleponija
I decided it was far past time to get out of Old Town, and I wanted to check out another area just a little east of the center. It doesn't have a specific name, so far as I can tell, but it's suffice to refer to it as Avotu and Vagonu Streets. And this first bar may not even technically be in that exact area. But it was on the way. And it was cool. Very local and super cozy with a nice patio area. Everyone seemed to know each other, and I enjoyed a quiet beer by myself while just being an observer.
Krokodils Bar
Then I walked further down Avotu street. It's noticeably rougher. Not dangerous. Just less polished than the other parts of the city that I had seen. And until I hit the busier area with several bars and restaurants, it was pretty much dead. But once I got to Krokodils Bar, there was a really cool vibe. I had a beer and chatted with a couple locals. I liked it. There were other places to check out, but the day had caught up to me and I had sort of hit my wall. This would be my last bar of the night.
-----
Parunāsim Kafe'teeka
Started my morning at a cute little coffee shop tucked away on a back alley of Old Town. A little touristy, but also charming. It's far enough away from the major tourist hubs that you don't really feel like you're in the thick of it. I'd go back.
Big Christopher
Before going to my big cultural thing of the day, I made a little detour to check out the Big Christopher statue down by the banks of the Daugara River. Nothing special. But good enough for one of those things you see just because it's there and you might see something else new along the way.
Latvian Occupation Museum
This was a really well-designed museum and provided a thorough understanding of Latvians being under the rule of both the Soviet Union and Nazi Germany. For the longest time, his country just couldn't catch a break. You could spend hours in this place, but I sort of took in the big picture topics and just skimmed the small print. Overall, it was really good.
Jana Seta
My next stop was a map store that I had read about. It's just what it sounds like. A store that sells maps, globes, and travel guides. But, it also has a collection of these crazy old paper maps from the Soviet Union. Essentially, they had made a detailed grid of planet earth, broken up into squared sections. After the Cold War, these maps went up for sale, and this store bought them all. Most of their stock now has been re-scanned, but they still have lots of originals. You can talk to the person behind the desk, tell them where you want a map from - say, your home town - and then they can search for it and located it from their print archives. It's pretty cool
Rocket Bean Roastery
Time for more coffee. Rocket Bean is sort of a local chain, and the location I went to on Miera Street is, I think, their primary shop and roasting location. It's good coffee, and a nice place to sit and relax for a bit. They also have a great collection of coffee for sale, so I stocked up on some gifts to bring home.
Ezītis Miglā
Next I went to another local chain - a restaurant that is known to be inexpensive but better than decent pub food. And it was exactly that. I had a beer and a burger and relaxed outside in a cute little courtyard area, nestled within a converted industrial enclave. It was similar in look and feel to Labietis Brewpub, and not surprisingly, in the same general area. It's logo is not a cat. It's a hedgehog.
Art Nouveau Triangle
After lunch I went back to an area we visited on the walking tour because I'd remembered seeing some decent gift ideas, and failed to find anything better since. The Art Nouveau Triangle is the core area for the city's signature architecture, and it specifically focuses on an area between the streets Alberta, Elizabetes, and Strelnieku.
Bastejkalna Park
After stocking up on gifts, I strolled over to this park near the Freedom Monument. It's lovely and full of people relaxing and passing through. Great people watching. I was going to attempt a siesta until I got a message that, due to a worker strike at the airport, my flight home from Amsterdam had been cancelled. So, I spent a bit of time on the phone with Delta rerouting my itinerary. So, no siesta. But a fine, fine place to work out travel logistics.
Nakama Tattoo
I had booked my tattoo in Estonia well in advance and had an appointment, and my plans was to just wing it for a second tattoo in Latvia. But I sort of left it all too late. In a last ditch effort, I called the shop I would've liked to have gone to, Nakama Tattoo. Nobody answered. But someone saw my number and, as I was walking to the Art Nouveau Triangle, they texted me to set up an appointment for that evening. It worked out perfectly! I even got the artists whose work I liked when I was doing my initial research. Fortunately, I had a couple examples of what I was looking for on my phone, and texted those along. Finally, later that evening, I met up with my artist, Kate, and she provided exceptional service. It was really chill. Once again, no shoes. Slippers only. Must be a Baltics thing. And it was just the two of us in a little upstairs shop, unmarked at the street, listening to Russian rap music. I got a little oak leaf with some Latvia red highlights. Great work!
Hot Kebabs
My plan after the tattoo was to have one last nice sit-down meal before heading home the next morning. But the session went a little late, and none of the proper restaurants were still open. So, on to plan B: Shawarma. It was fitting. My favorite travel food for my final meal. I grabbed a wrap at this place near my Airbnb, went back to eat in the kitchen, and packed to leave early the next day.
-----
Leaving Riga
And that was that. I used the Bolt app to pre-schedule a 5:45am ride to the airport, and then it was Riga to Frankfurt. Frankfurt to Atlanta. And then to bed. I was beat. What can I say? I never got to take that last siesta in Riga.
No comments:
Post a Comment